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Visiting Yellowstone In Winter – Where To Stay And What To Do

Yellowstone National Park attracted nearly 94,000 visitors during the 2009-2010 winter season, barely a drop in the bucket when compared to it’s record setting 3.3 million visitors last year.  However, fewer visitors means fewer crowds and cheaper prices.  Don’t get me wrong, Yellowstone is still expensive, but the winter hotel rates can be more attractive than peak summer rates, especially if booked in a package.  Just be prepared to face bitter cold days where any sliver of sunshine makes you wish you were on a beach in the tropics.  In the end, it’s all worth it.

Yellowstone Winter Geyser

Staying Inside the Park

Mammoth Hot Springs and Old Faithful are the only two locations for in-park lodging during winter.  Nestled in a sprawling “valley” at a cool 6,200 feet, the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel is reachable by car and is open to guests from the week of Christmas through the first week in March.  Offering a variety of rooms and amenities, there are options for every visitor.  And by amenities I mean a private bath, you won’t find televisions (except in suites), radios, internet hook-ups or air-conditioning here (of course there is heat).  Mammoth is unique in that this 1930′s era hotel still offers shared baths…but for $87/night during peak season, you can’t beat the price.  It works for families with teens, but probably not for those with younger kids.

Mammoth Hot Springs Winter Aerial

Of course, if you don’t mind shelling out a few more bucks, you can upgrade to a mid-range room that includes two double beds and a small bath for $117/night.  Not all mid-range rooms have bathtubs, so if you plan on bathing the kids, be sure to request one in advance.  If you really want to splurge, a suite with it’s two queen size beds, sitting area, cable TV and private bath will set you back $439/night.  Rates are based upon double occupancy; kids under 12 are free when staying with two adults.  Each additional adult in a room is $11/night.

Old Faithful Snow Lodge Winter

About 30 miles from West Yellowstone and 50 miles from Mammoth, the Old Faithful Snow Lodge is in stark contrast to the budget minded Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel.  Built in 1999, the lodge boasts a soaring post and beam lobby, intimate sitting areas, cozy fireplace and simple but tasteful western style accommodations.  Open from mid-December through the first week of March, the Snow Lodge offers lodge rooms with two double beds and private bath for $197/night.  If you’re willing to venture out into one of the Western Cabins, really a four-plex motel style unit, you’ll pay $143/night for two queen sized beds and private bath.  If you’re really adventurous, the quick selling duplex style Frontier Cabins (not recommended for families in winter) are simplistic motel style units with shower for the bargain price of $96/night.  Snowcoach shuttles to Old Faithful are available from Mammoth, Flagg Ranch and West Yellowstone for an additional fee.  Rates are based upon double occupancy; kids under 12 are free when staying with two adults.  Each additional adult in a room is $11/night.

Beware: Old Faithful’s Western Cabins and Frontier Cabins are somewhat isolated from the Snow Lodge in winter and since you won’t have motorized transport, walking is required.

 

Yellowstone Winter Wildlife

There are no televisions in standard park accommodations, which leaves lots of time for family activities.  Exploring the gift shop at the Snow Lodge can be an activity in itself – there are just so many cool things, but you’re really here to enjoy the outdoors.  Both locations offer ice skating for a small fee (skates included), cross-country skiing (guided, unguided or instruction), snowshoeing (guided or unguided), snowmobiling (guided only), snowcoach tours and best of all, hot tubbing ($21.63/hour – Mammoth only).  Snowcoach tours and express shuttles are also available between lodges, to/from Flagg Ranch and to/from West Yellowstone.  Check out the full selection of tours and equipment rentals offered by Xanterra.

Yellowstone Winter Snowmobile Meets Bison

Many tours offer half-price fares for children 2-11 and allow children under 2 to participate for free, so getting out and into the park is affordable, even with kids.  The best tours and activities for families are:

  1. Ice Skating – it’s cheap, it’s convenient and it’s a great nighttime activity
  2. Hot Tubbing – Each tub accommodates up to five with attached changing rooms for one low price.  A terrific evening of relaxation after a long (cold) day outside.
  3. Snowmobiling – Although prices are steep ($275/day), kids under 12 ride free with an adult.  This is an awesome activity that allows you to explore the park and see everything close-up.  Minimum age is generally 7 and up for passengers and 13 and up for drivers.
  4. Snowcoaching – As a backup for young kids and the less adventurous, a snowcoach tour is perfect.  From the warmth of the snowcoach you can view wildlife, magnificent scenery and learn about the park.  You’ll also have time for a little bit of outdoor exploration at select stops.
  5. Skiing/Snowshoeing – With instruction, shuttles and several guided tours, there are plenty of options for the family.  For $15 per adult and $7.25 for children under 12, you can take one of 4 round- trip daily “ski” shuttles that allow you to explore the park on “foot”.  Equipment rental is also available.

Yellowstone Winter Bighorn Sheep

If you’re visiting Mammoth and have a vehicle, take an afternoon to venture into the Lamar Valley (toward Cooke City).  You’ll have a chance to see the grey wolves, bison, bighorn sheep and various other wildlife.  A keen eye and persistence will pay off.  Be cautious, however, as the road to Cooke City can be snow covered and slick at times.

Yellowstone Winter Wolf

Eating a big breakfast, packing snacks for daytime and enjoying a leisurely evening meal will become routine.  At the Snow Lodge, you’ll find the Obsidian Dining Room, which offers some unique fare and sizeable portions in an upscale rustic setting.  The Geyser Grill at the Snow Lodge offers quick breakfasts and more casual fare for the family on the go.  Unlike the rustic atmosphere of the Snow Lodge, the Mammoth Dining Room is a bit more stark and casual.  Food at dinner is hearty and satisfying, although we found breakfast to be much more exciting.  You can also order boxed lunches to go.  The biggest complaint is usually about service or price.  Yes, service can be a bit leisurely, but hey, you’re on vacation and there’s not exactly anywhere to rush off to in the evening.  Price is relative – if you fill up at breakfast, have a light lunch and go casual for dinner, you’ll spend a little less.

ALERT: Dining reservations are required for the Obsidian Dining Room in winter.  Dinner reservations are highly recommended for the Mammoth Dining Room in winter.  Reservations may be made up to 60 days in advance and peak times fill up early.

Finally, a more economical way to see Yellowstone in winter may be by reserving a package.  Xanterra, the park’s concessionaire, offers several packages from $129 per person for two nights.  Packages include breakfast, a welcome gift, discount card, hot tub rental (Mammoth only), unlimited ice skating and other activities and transportation depending upon the package and lodge chosen.  There are also special Lodging and Learning packages for kids 12 and over that provide a more in-depth look at Yellowstone through educational excursions throughout the park.

Yellowstone Winter Norris Geyser Trail

Visiting Yellowstone in winter was the single best winter vacation experience that we’ve ever had.  Although the ability to explore on your own is more restricted nowadays, it’s still an amazing destination.  You might not be able to hike through two feet of snow on the Norris Geyser Basin trail, but you’ll still have loads of fun!

Check out previous posts in this series:

Part 1 – Visiting Yellowstone in Winter – Introduction To The Park

Part 2 – Visiting Yellowstone in Winter – Getting There And Around

Enjoy the photos!  For more amazing photos, please visit Photo Friday at DeliciousBaby.   

Disclosure

Visiting Yellowstone In Winter – Getting There And Around

Yellowstone Winter Steam VentYellowstone National Park is tucked away in the northwest corner of Wyoming, about 300 miles (6 hours) from Salt Lake City.  The closest regional airport is in Bozeman, Montana, approximately 100 miles north of Mammoth Hot Springs and about 90 miles from West Yellowstone.  The five airlines serving Bozeman’s Gallatin Field offer a total of 18 or more daily flights during the winter season, with additional flights scheduled during the holiday season and winter break.  Renting a car will be your best bet as transportation to and from the park in winter is limited.  Most major car rental agencies have on-airport locations and offer a full range of vehicles and services.

Another option will be to fly into Idaho Falls, which is a little over 100 miles south of West Yellowstone.  Served by three airlines with a total of 13 daily flights, there are fewer options, but if you’re headed to the south entrance at Flagg Ranch, this is an alternative to flying directly into Jackson, Wyoming.  Several rental car companies offer a wide range of vehicles on-site.

Note:  The West Yellowstone Airport is closed in winter.  Jackson Hole Airport should only be used if  you are going to Yellowstone through Flagg Ranch.

Yellowstone Winter Road

For those who don’t mind driving the extra 400 miles round-trip, flying into Salt Lake City will provide more choices and cheaper fares.  Round-trip fares to Salt Lake City start at $139, with flights from the East Coast starting around $199.  Comparatively, fares for flights into Idaho Falls average over $300, while you may be able to catch a break into Bozeman with fares in the $225 range from the Midwest and $350 from the East Coast.  During the snowy winter season, flying into Bozeman may be your best choice if you want to avoid excess driving in inclement weather.  Route 20 coming into West Yellowstone from the south can be a bit treacherous at times.  However, both West Yellowstone and Mammoth Hot Springs are fairly easy two-hour drives from Bozeman.


When choosing a rental car, make sure that you take into consideration all of the bulky winter clothing and any equipment (skis, snowshoes, etc.) that you’ll be carrying.  In addition, you may want to select a vehicle, such as an SUV, that will perform better in the winter weather.  While the roads leading to Mammoth Hot Springs are kept fairly clear, if you plan on driving the road to Cooke City, you’ll want a heavier vehicle with front-wheel or four-wheel drive.  If you’re venturing down to West Yellowstone, be aware that the roads in the area are often covered with a light snowpack to allow easy access to snowmobiles.  There is an extensive trail system in the West Yellowstone area that is outside of the park, so you’ll likely encounter lots of snowmobile traffic in and around town.

Snowmobile Yellowstone

If you decide to do this trip without a rental car, which I don’t recommend with kids, you can take a once daily shuttle to Mammoth or four times daily shuttle to West Yellowstone from the Bozeman airport.  Karst Stage offers round-trip service to West Yellowstone for $92.90 (1/2 price ages 3-12 and free for under 3) and to Mammoth for $110.25 per person based upon 3-4 passengers (1/2 price ages 3-12 and free for under 3).  If you’re really adventurous and don’t mind 7 hours on a bus, Salt Lake Express offers shuttle service from the Salt Lake City Airport to West Yellowstone at 10AM daily (leaves downtown at 9:30AM) for about $120 round-trip ($10 less for ages 2-12 and free under 2).  There is no practical shuttle service from Idaho Falls.

If you’re staying in Bozeman for a few days, there is a free shuttle system called Streamline that will get you to most places that you want to go.  Getting around Mammoth, however, will require a bit of walking.  Although everything is within walking distance, you may want to use your car on cold days and when hiking the terraces (beware – parking can be a challenge).  Snowmobiles are not available for local rental in Mammoth, so unless you have your own, you’ll be walking.

Snowmobile Tour Yellowstone

In West Yellowstone, you’ll have several transportation choices.  Snowmobile is the most common form of transportation, but you can easily walk to restaurants, shops and attractions if you’ve chosen a centrally located hotel.  Finding parking will be relatively easy and taxis are available if you’re without a vehicle.  West Yellowstone will offer the most services and opportunities for tours into the park.

Transportation into the park will only be by a guided snowmobile tour or snowcoach.  Once inside the park, you’ll be limited to one of these transportation options or cross-country skiing, snowshoeing or walking.  There is no motorized transportation within the park other than “group” tours.

Check out other posts in this series:

Part 1 – Visiting Yellowstone in Winter – Introduction To The Park

Part 3 – Visiting Yellowstone in Winter – Where To Stay And What To Do

Disclosure

Visiting Yellowstone in Winter – An Introduction To The Park

Yellowstone National Park Winter

Yellowstone National Park, established in 1872 as America’s first national park, is a World Heritage Site that encompasses over 2.2 million acres in three states.  Although most of Yellowstone lies in Wyoming, you’ll likely enter the park through the north entrance at Gardner, Montana or the west entrance at West Yellowstone, Montana.  As a matter of fact, the only entrance with services that is actually in Wyoming is to the south at Flagg Ranch.  The lesser-used northeast entrance at Cooke City, Montana is open year-round to vehicles, while the east entrance is about 50 miles from Cody, Wyoming and closes to authorized vehicles at 9PM each evening in winter.  Entry into the park is $15 per person if on “foot” or $25 per vehicle.  Check the daily winter report before you go.

Without a doubt, the most interesting time to visit Yellowstone is in the winter season.  The park usually reopens to visitors around the middle of December and closes again for plowing by mid-March.  This short winter season is often at the mercy of Mother Nature as transportation throughout the interior of the park relies upon a reasonable snowpack.  So, it’s best to plan your winter vacation to Yellowstone for after the 1st of the year.

Yellowstone Winter Road to Cooke City

There are only a few roads that are open year-round to non-commercial passenger vehicles.  The road from Gardner, Montana to Mammoth Hot Springs, which sees the most traffic in winter, is open and usually pretty clear for much of the season.  In contrast, the road from Mammoth Hot Springs to the northeast entrance at Cooke City, although open can be hit or miss depending upon weather conditions.

Yellowstone Winter Road MapAs of 2004, only guided snowmobile tours with an approved tour provider or approved snowcoach vehicles are allowed to traverse the interior roads of Yellowstone during winter.  Gliding along the groomed snow covered roads, the snowcoach provides a convenient way to see the spectacular winter landscape if you have young kids.  For families with older kids, joining a guided snowmobile tour is an exciting way to interact with nature while enjoying the sport of snowmobiling.

The Temporary Winter Use Plan that has been in place is set to expire at the end of the 2011 winter season. If new, acceptable rules are not put in place for the 2011-2012 season, all motorizeed access to the park in winter will cease. Six alternatives have been proposed and are currently open for public comment. Please participate in the process to keep our most beautiful national park open to winter visitors.

If you don’t want to venture into the interior or are looking to save some money (Yellowstone is expensive in winter), you can enter Yellowstone through Gardner, Montana and enjoy the park from Mammoth Hot Springs.  Although an abbreviated experience, it is much less expensive and still offers some spectacular scenery and fun activities.

Yellowstone Continental Divide

Whether it’s relaxing and taking in the scenery on a guided snowcoach tour, snowmobiling across the continental divide, snowshoeing or cross-country skiing through the snow covered landscape, ice-skating with the kids, escaping the cold with a dip into the hot tub or just reading a book by a roaring fire, there is an activity for everyone in the family.  Of course, you’ll have plenty of opportunities to explore on your own too.  With about 10,000 thermal features, over 300 geysers, hundreds of waterfalls and the amazing travertine terraces at Mammoth Hot Springs, Yellowstone will engage even the youngest of visitors.  Don’t forget the wildlife – bison, elk, bighorn sheep and wolves abound in winter.

Yellowstone Winter Landscape

You’ll need to dress warmly as temperatures will range on average from 0°F-40°F with colder temperatures possible in the interior.  Wind chill can also be a factor, making it feel even colder.  Temperatures at Mammoth Hot Springs tend to be at the higher end of the range, although anything is possible.  Expect frequent precipitation in the form of snow that can hamper visibility and quickly accumulate around you.  When venturing out, always be prepared.

Check out previous posts in this series:

Part 2 – Visiting Yellowstone in Winter – Getting There And Around

Part 3 – Visiting Yellowstone in Winter – Where To Stay And What To Do

Disclosure

Five National Parks You Should Visit During National Parks Week

Visiting a National Park is an interesting, educational and exciting activity for kids and during National Parks Week (April 17th-25th), it’s FREE!

Our Top Five Picks For National Parks Week…

  1. Yosemite - The Tree Is Bigger Than MeYosemite National Park is our top pick.  After all, with roaring waterfalls (Yosemite Falls is one of the tallest in the world) as a result of melting snow, Yosemite is the best place to visit this time of year.  The Glacier and Tioga roads are closed, but there is still plenty to do…like see BIG trees!  Lodging books up early, so be sure to secure a spot before you head out.
  2. Zion NP Rock ClimbingWith wildflowers in bloom and average daily temperatures in the 70s, Zion National Park is a sure bet destination during National Parks Week.  Take advantage of the mild temperatures and slip into the park before the road construction begins in May.  The water may be a bit cold (to hike the Narrows), but there are plenty of other activities to keep you busy.  Check out our article on Zion before you go.
  3. Great Smokey Mountain HikeThere has been lots of activity in the family friendly areas surrounding the Great Smokey Mountains, which makes this National Park a top pick for National Parks Week.  You can check out the wildflowers and waterfalls, then head down to Pigeon Forge to check out the new Titanic Museum Exhibit.  Be sure to review the current road closures before you go.
  4. Shenandoah WaterfallsShenandoah National Park has lots to offer in spring and with Aramark offering  a two-for-one deal at Skyland resort, this is another great weekend family getaway.  Wateralls should be running, wildflowers should be blooming and with any luck the mud will have turned hard again.  Check out our article on Shenandoah before you go.
  5. Yellowstone Winter GeyserOpening to vehicle traffic just in time for National Parks Weeks, Yellowstone National Park rounds out the list.  Roads from Mammoth to Old Faithful (via Norris and Madison Junctions) are scheduled to open today as is the road from the West Entrance to Madison Junction.  If you are lucky, you will get to see the lingering winter landscape while enjoying the convenience of driving your vehicle into the park.  Check out our article on Yellowstone before you go.

If you enjoyed these photos and would like to see more, visit Photo Friday at Deliciousbaby.

Disclosure

National Parks Week Deals 2010

In anticipation of National Parks Week (April 17th-25th), we’re focusing on the best lodging deals being offered by National Park Concessioners.  Most of these deals are valid during National Parks Week only or must be booked by April 25, 2010, so act fast!

  • Mount Ranier National Park concessioner, Mt. Ranier Guest Services, is offering a free night at the historic National Park Inn when you purchase one night at regular rates (from $111).  Valid for any weekday stay (Sunday-Thursday) through 4/29.  Package includes complimentary afternoon tea and one day snowshoe rental.  Call 360-569-2275 for reservations.

The following deals are all being offered by Aramark Parks and Destinations and may be reserved online using this special link.

  • Olympic National Park concessioner, Aramark, is giving guests a generous deal at all three of its park lodgings.  When you stay one night (from $157), you will receive another night for free.  This promotion is valid for stays between April 17th and 25th at both the Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort and Kalaloch Lodge and between May 7th and 31st at the Lake Crescent Lodge (must be booked by April 25th). 
  • At Shenandoah National Park, you can stay two nights at Skyland Resort for the price of one.  Rates start at just $125 and valid from April 18 through April 29.  Check out our article on Shenandoah before you go!
  • Two nights at the Far View Lodge in Mesa Verde National Park will cost you only $99 when you stay between April 22 and April 30.  This is a great deal for a family weekend getaway!
  • If you are planning a visit to Yellowstone National Park or Grand Teton National Park by June 28th, you may want to take advantage of the buy-one-get-one-free offer at the Togwotee Mountain Lodge located 44 miles from Yellowstone.  Reserve one of their cabins by April 25th for stays between May 21st and June 28th to get this offer.

Check out more National Parks Week deals online.

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