The Lollipop Road

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Yellowstone National Park attracted nearly 94,000 visitors during the 2009-2010 winter season, barely a drop in the bucket when compared to it’s record setting 3.3 million visitors last year.  However, fewer visitors means fewer crowds and cheaper prices.  Don’t get me wrong, Yellowstone is still expensive, but the winter hotel rates can be more attractive than peak summer rates, especially if booked in a package.  Just be prepared to face bitter cold days where any sliver of sunshine makes you wish you were on a beach in the tropics.  In the end, it’s all worth it.

Staying Inside the Park

Mammoth Hot Springs and Old Faithful are the only two locations for in-park lodging during winter.  Nestled in a sprawling “valley” at a cool 6,200 feet, the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel is reachable by car and is open to guests from the week of Christmas through the first week in March.  Offering a variety of rooms and amenities, there are options for every visitor.  And by amenities I mean a private bath, you won’t find televisions (except in suites), radios, internet hook-ups or air-conditioning here (of course there is heat).  Mammoth is unique in that this 1930′s era hotel still offers shared baths…but for $87/night during peak season, you can’t beat the price.  It works for families with teens, but probably not for those with younger kids.

Of course, if you don’t mind shelling out a few more bucks, you can upgrade to a mid-range room that includes two double beds and a small bath for $117/night.  Not all mid-range rooms have bathtubs, so if you plan on bathing the kids, be sure to request one in advance.  If you really want to splurge, a suite with it’s two queen size beds, sitting area, cable TV and private bath will set you back $439/night.  Rates are based upon double occupancy; kids under 12 are free when staying with two adults.  Each additional adult in a room is $11/night.

About 30 miles from West Yellowstone and 50 miles from Mammoth, the Old Faithful Snow Lodge is in stark contrast to the budget minded Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel.  Built in 1999, the lodge boasts a soaring post and beam lobby, intimate sitting areas, cozy fireplace and simple but tasteful western style accommodations.  Open from mid-December through the first week of March, the Snow Lodge offers lodge rooms with two double beds and private bath for $197/night.  If you’re willing to venture out into one of the Western Cabins, really a four-plex motel style unit, you’ll pay $143/night for two queen sized beds and private bath.  If you’re really adventurous, the quick selling duplex style Frontier Cabins (not recommended for families in winter) are simplistic motel style units with shower for the bargain price of $96/night.  Snowcoach shuttles to Old Faithful are available from Mammoth, Flagg Ranch and West Yellowstone for an additional fee.  Rates are based upon double occupancy; kids under 12 are free when staying with two adults.  Each additional adult in a room is $11/night.

Beware: Old Faithful’s Western Cabins and Frontier Cabins are somewhat isolated from the Snow Lodge in winter and since you won’t have motorized transport, walking is required.

 

There are no televisions in standard park accommodations, which leaves lots of time for family activities.  Exploring the gift shop at the Snow Lodge can be an activity in itself – there are just so many cool things, but you’re really here to enjoy the outdoors.  Both locations offer ice skating for a small fee (skates included), cross-country skiing (guided, unguided or instruction), snowshoeing (guided or unguided), snowmobiling (guided only), snowcoach tours and best of all, hot tubbing ($21.63/hour – Mammoth only).  Snowcoach tours and express shuttles are also available between lodges, to/from Flagg Ranch and to/from West Yellowstone.  Check out the full selection of tours and equipment rentals offered by Xanterra.

Many tours offer half-price fares for children 2-11 and allow children under 2 to participate for free, so getting out and into the park is affordable, even with kids.  The best tours and activities for families are:

1. Ice Skating – it’s cheap, it’s convenient and it’s a great nighttime activity
2. Hot Tubbing – Each tub accommodates up to five with attached changing rooms for one low price.  A terrific evening of relaxation after a long (cold) day outside.
3. Snowmobiling – Although prices are steep ($275/day), kids under 12 ride free with an adult.  This is an awesome activity that allows you to explore the park and see everything close-up.  Minimum age is generally 7 and up for passengers and 13 and up for drivers.
4. Snowcoaching – As a backup for young kids and the less adventurous, a snowcoach tour is perfect.  From the warmth of the snowcoach you can view wildlife, magnificent scenery and learn about the park.  You’ll also have time for a little bit of outdoor exploration at select stops.
5. Skiing/Snowshoeing – With instruction, shuttles and several guided tours, there are plenty of options for the family.  For $15 per adult and $7.25 for children under 12, you can take one of 4 round- trip daily “ski” shuttles that allow you to explore the park on “foot”.  Equipment rental is also available.

If you’re visiting Mammoth and have a vehicle, take an afternoon to venture into the Lamar Valley (toward Cooke City).  You’ll have a chance to see the grey wolves, bison, bighorn sheep and various other wildlife.  A keen eye and persistence will pay off.  Be cautious, however, as the road to Cooke City can be snow covered and slick at times.

Eating a big breakfast, packing snacks for daytime and enjoying a leisurely evening meal will become routine.  At the Snow Lodge, you’ll find the Obsidian Dining Room, which offers some unique fare and sizeable portions in an upscale rustic setting.  The Geyser Grill at the Snow Lodge offers quick breakfasts and more casual fare for the family on the go.  Unlike the rustic atmosphere of the Snow Lodge, the Mammoth Dining Room is a bit more stark and casual.  Food at dinner is hearty and satisfying, although we found breakfast to be much more exciting.  You can also order boxed lunches to go.  The biggest complaint is usually about service or price.  Yes, service can be a bit leisurely, but hey, you’re on vacation and there’s not exactly anywhere to rush off to in the evening.  Price is relative – if you fill up at breakfast, have a light lunch and go casual for dinner, you’ll spend a little less.

ALERT: Dining reservations are required for the Obsidian Dining Room in winter.  Dinner reservations are highly recommended for the Mammoth Dining Room in winter.  Reservations may be made up to 60 days in advance and peak times fill up early.

Finally, a more economical way to see Yellowstone in winter may be by reserving a package.  Xanterra, the park’s concessionaire, offers several packages from $129 per person for two nights.  Packages include breakfast, a welcome gift, discount card, hot tub rental (Mammoth only), unlimited ice skating and other activities and transportation depending upon the package and lodge chosen.  There are also special Lodging and Learning packages for kids 12 and over that provide a more in-depth look at Yellowstone through educational excursions throughout the park.

Visiting Yellowstone in winter was the single best winter vacation experience that we’ve ever had.  Although the ability to explore on your own is more restricted nowadays, it’s still an amazing destination.  You might not be able to hike through two feet of snow on the Norris Geyser Basin trail, but you’ll still have loads of fun!

Check out previous posts in this series:

Part 1 – Visiting Yellowstone in Winter – Introduction To The Park

Part 2 – Visiting Yellowstone in Winter – Getting There And Around

Enjoy the photos!  For more amazing photos, please visit Photo Friday at DeliciousBaby.   

Disclosure

Yellowstone National Park is tucked away in the northwest corner of Wyoming, about 300 miles (6 hours) from Salt Lake City.  The closest regional airport is in Bozeman, Montana, approximately 100 miles north of Mammoth Hot Springs and about 90 miles from West Yellowstone.  The five airlines serving Bozeman’s Gallatin Field offer a total of 18 or more daily flights during the winter season, with additional flights scheduled during the holiday season and winter break.  Renting a car will be your best bet as transportation to and from the park in winter is limited.  Most major car rental agencies have on-airport locations and offer a full range of vehicles and services.

Another option will be to fly into Idaho Falls, which is a little over 100 miles south of West Yellowstone.  Served by three airlines with a total of 13 daily flights, there are fewer options, but if you’re headed to the south entrance at Flagg Ranch, this is an alternative to flying directly into Jackson, Wyoming.  Several rental car companies offer a wide range of vehicles on-site.

Note:  The West Yellowstone Airport is closed in winter.  Jackson Hole Airport should only be used if  you are going to Yellowstone through Flagg Ranch.

For those who don’t mind driving the extra 400 miles round-trip, flying into Salt Lake City will provide more choices and cheaper fares.  Round-trip fares to Salt Lake City start at $139, with flights from the East Coast starting around $199.  Comparatively, fares for flights into Idaho Falls average over $300, while you may be able to catch a break into Bozeman with fares in the $225 range from the Midwest and $350 from the East Coast.  During the snowy winter season, flying into Bozeman may be your best choice if you want to avoid excess driving in inclement weather.  Route 20 coming into West Yellowstone from the south can be a bit treacherous at times.  However, both West Yellowstone and Mammoth Hot Springs are fairly easy two-hour drives from Bozeman.

When choosing a rental car, make sure that you take into consideration all of the bulky winter clothing and any equipment (skis, snowshoes, etc.) that you’ll be carrying.  In addition, you may want to select a vehicle, such as an SUV, that will perform better in the winter weather.  While the roads leading to Mammoth Hot Springs are kept fairly clear, if you plan on driving the road to Cooke City, you’ll want a heavier vehicle with front-wheel or four-wheel drive.  If you’re venturing down to West Yellowstone, be aware that the roads in the area are often covered with a light snowpack to allow easy access to snowmobiles.  There is an extensive trail system in the West Yellowstone area that is outside of the park, so you’ll likely encounter lots of snowmobile traffic in and around town.

If you decide to do this trip without a rental car, which I don’t recommend with kids, you can take a once daily shuttle to Mammoth or four times daily shuttle to West Yellowstone from the Bozeman airport.  Karst Stage offers round-trip service to West Yellowstone for $92.90 (1/2 price ages 3-12 and free for under 3) and to Mammoth for $110.25 per person based upon 3-4 passengers (1/2 price ages 3-12 and free for under 3).  If you’re really adventurous and don’t mind 7 hours on a bus, Salt Lake Express offers shuttle service from the Salt Lake City Airport to West Yellowstone at 10AM daily (leaves downtown at 9:30AM) for about $120 round-trip ($10 less for ages 2-12 and free under 2).  There is no practical shuttle service from Idaho Falls.

If you’re staying in Bozeman for a few days, there is a free shuttle system called Streamline that will get you to most places that you want to go.  Getting around Mammoth, however, will require a bit of walking.  Although everything is within walking distance, you may want to use your car on cold days and when hiking the terraces (beware – parking can be a challenge).  Snowmobiles are not available for local rental in Mammoth, so unless you have your own, you’ll be walking.

In West Yellowstone, you’ll have several transportation choices.  Snowmobile is the most common form of transportation, but you can easily walk to restaurants, shops and attractions if you’ve chosen a centrally located hotel.  Finding parking will be relatively easy and taxis are available if you’re without a vehicle.  West Yellowstone will offer the most services and opportunities for tours into the park.

Transportation into the park will only be by a guided snowmobile tour or snowcoach.  Once inside the park, you’ll be limited to one of these transportation options or cross-country skiing, snowshoeing or walking.  There is no motorized transportation within the park other than “group” tours.

Check out other posts in this series:

Part 1 – Visiting Yellowstone in Winter – Introduction To The Park

Part 3 – Visiting Yellowstone in Winter – Where To Stay And What To Do

Disclosure

You can read more about this topic, as well as many other family cruising topics, in our new book–Cruising With Kids: A Guide To The Perfect Family Cruise Vacation. Visit our dedicated Cruising With Kids website for more details.

One of the more dreaded times when cruising with kids, especially younger kids, is mealtime.  Imagine your embarrassment as your 8 month old throws food or something like say…a cup and it hits someone at the next table; for once you wish it had hit you (again).  What is the alternative?  Hibernating in your cabin for meals?  Well, that may be  part of the solution, but you can successfully dine anywhere on the ship armed with a few simple tips.

Read the rest of this entry »

You can read more about this topic, as well as many other family cruising topics, in our new book–Cruising With Kids: A Guide To The Perfect Family Cruise Vacation. Visit our dedicated Cruising With Kids website for more details.

I was chatting with the Guest Services Manager onboard the Carnival Sensation last week and he remarked how fewer passengers are getting off the ship in port.  Granted, there is literally nothing within walking distance of the port in Freeport, other than the few shops around the pier.  However, there are plenty of amazingly beautiful places that you can venture to in Freeport without much difficulty.

For example, on our last stop in Freeport, we decided to rent a car and do a bit of exploring.  Celebrity Rent-a-Car ((242) 351-1241) is conveniently located at the pier and has a limited selection of vehicles and mopeds for rent.  Compact cars (they go early) are $70, full-size cars are $80 and mopeds are $50 for the day.  These rates include insurance.  They also require a $350 deposit, which they will charge to your credit card immediately.  If you do not pay cash on return, there is a 10% surcharge for using a credit card.

If you need a car seat, (the law does require seats up to forty pounds and a booster for kids up to 4’9″) they only had one convertible seat, so you’ll want to reserve in advance or get there early.  The rental fee was $5 for the day.

Once I checked over the numerous bumps and scrapes on the the well worn vehicle that we were assigned, I jumped into the right side drivers seat (they drive on the left) and we were on our way.  Be sure to get a map and directions before you head out, otherwise you may never make it back to the ship.

Our destination on this day was Lucayan National Park, located about 30 miles away in East Grand Bahama.  The roads were pretty bare of traffic, but there are a few confusing circles, so you have to keep a close eye on where you are going.  Thirty-five minutes later we arrived at the park (they’ll tell you an hour – now way unless you get lost and drive very slowly).  It looked dry and deserted until a very helpful park ranger popped out to collect our $3 per person fee (kids 12 and under are free) and provide us with all of the information on exploring the park.

It was still early, so we decided to explore the caves and trails a bit before heading over to Gold Rock Beach (featured in Pirates of the Caribbean II & III).  Part of the longest underground cave system in the world, the various entry points along the path provide a glimpse into  the cool, dark underworld that lives beneath.  In the largest of the caves, you’ll find a colony of bats hovering above an open ended ramp that allows access to the vast underwater system for experienced divers.

If you look closely, you’ll also catch a glimpse of the various sea life that inhabits these cool shaded waters.  Wandering down the path and through the tropical forest, you’ll find a variety or flowers and plants as well as the errant poison Dogwood just waiting to reach out to touch you.  The short loop trail is about a 15 minute trip without stops.  Allow about 45 minutes for the entire excursion.

 

At the trailhead are the only restrooms in the entire park (or within 5 miles for that matter), so this made a great changing place before heading to the beach.  Across the Grand Bahama Highway is the trailhead to Gold Rock Beach.  You’ll also find a nice Bahamian woman selling drinks, snacks and lots of little trinkets right by the roadside.  Her prices aren’t bad either for being in the middle of nowhere – $2 for water and $1.50 for soda.

We decided to take the shorter trail that leads you through the tropical mangroves and over a bridge to reveal the thick forested barrier before reaching the white pristine beach with gently lapping turquoise water.  This is the most beautiful beach on Grand Bahama Island and perhaps one of the most beautiful beaches in the world.

At low tide, you can comb the wide sand beach for shells and coral.  During high tide, you can wade in the one to two feet of water that stretches almost 500 feet toward the sea.  The shallow water, beach combing opportunities and tropical setting make this a perfect beach for family play and relaxation.  I don’t think that there were ever more than 15 people on the beach during the time we were there.  If you are looking for a quiet, unspoiled paradise, this is the place.

There is a tour provider that rents a pavilion for its kayak tours, but they won’t be much of a bother as the beach is long and secluded.  I suggest bringing a picnic lunch in order to make the most of your limited time.  About 5 miles past the park (stay to the right at the fork), you’ll find a store offering basic supplies and a kitchen with some Bahamian specialties and kid friendly fare.  The ham and cheese sandwich had real baked ham and the hamburger was one of the best we’ve ever had.  Portions were generous and our picnic lunch for four cost us less than $20 with drinks.  There are also a couple of excellent restaurants in the area if you have more time.  The ranger at the park will be more than happy to provide suggestions and directions.

Our return to the ship was uneventful (other than one small wrong turn) and there is a gas station on the main road a few miles from the port where you can fill up.  Allow 15 minutes for the return process – I think I was the last to board, about 5 minutes before they pulled the gangway…talk about cutting it close.  Total cost of this excursion was about $135.  This excursion is also available from local tour operators starting at $40 for adults and $25 for children.

So, if you’re looking to try something a bit different and you’re willing accept a little adventure, rent a car and head out to Lucayan National Park and Gold Rock Beach.  It’s a great day of fun for the entire family without having to fight the crowds at the resorts in and around Lucaya.  Just be sure to bring lots of sun protection and a good map!

You can read more about this topic, as well as many other family cruising topics, in our new book–Cruising With Kids: A Guide To The Perfect Family Cruise Vacation. Visit our dedicated Cruising With Kids website for more details.

Disclosure

We all thought that it would be a much bigger deal than it turned out to be, but it’s still a memory that will remain with us forever.  If you’re Irish, married to someone who is Irish, or just love drinking a good Guinness now and again, visiting Ireland should top your list of things to do with your kids before they’re out of college and have long forgotten about vacationing with their parents. 

As St. Patrick’s Day approaches, I’m flooded with wonderful memories of a family vacation to Ireland taken many years ago, right around this time.  To celebrate St. Patrick’s Day, we’d planned on trudging out early into the cold, damp morning to marvel at the entertainment of Dublin’s St. Patrick’s Day Parade.  It was quite a long walk from our hotel to the parade route, but we were so looking forward to this once in a lifetime experience, I mean, it’s St. Patrick’s Day and this is Ireland.

We’d anticipated large crowds of people vying for a good spot from which to view the spectacle.  When we arrived at the place where we thought we should be, we wondered if we had taken a wrong turn.  There were fewer than a thousand people within our sight – perhaps as a result of the inclement weather, we thought.  The crowd did grow a bit by the time the parade started, but it wasn’t until later that we’d realize that the St. Patrick’s Day Parade back home was a much bigger deal than it was in Ireland.

There was some strange stuff in that parade!  Oh well, we enjoyed it all the same!  It was a once in a lifetime experience.  Enjoy the photos and check back with us again to read more on traveling throughout Ireland.

Enjoy the photos!  For more amazing photos, please visit Photo Friday at DeliciousBaby.   

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